Malawi Study Tour

I did not think that I would be back in Malawi so soon but within days I was travelling along the same stretch of road and passing through the same border crossing. Why? Well this was a work trip, and not for pleasure, as VSO Zambia had organised a study tour on HIV and AIDS issues for a number of its partner organisations and I had been fortunate to be invited along too. A group of 10 of us travelled to Malawi – many who I had met before so it was nice to see this familiar friendly faces. We were joined by a similar group of HIV and AIDS workers from VSO partner organisations Mozambique so my Portuguese language skills improved no end – Bon dia and Obrigado! We spent a week travelling around central and southern Malawi (between Lilongwe and Blantyre) meeting with organisations at different levels (Government, district, community and NGOs) who are all working in the HIV and AIDS field. We listened and questioned (and wanted to question some more if there was time), and were overall impressed by what is being done in Malawi in the fight against HIV and AIDS. It all seems more organised and coordinated, and also better supported; I don’t just mean financially but also in terms of politics, planning and actions. The task now is to bring back some of this learning to Zambia to improve the situation here.

Malawi - Cape Maclear

Then we packed up our tents, happy but a bit tired from dancing into the early hours night after night. So for a few days relaxation we headed to Cape Maclear, a beautiful area on Lake Malawi where we swam, read, hired kayaks to go paddling on the lake, and also hired some snorkels and saw plenty of brightly coloured fish. The only downside of the kayaking and snorkelling was the sun cream rubbing off far too easily which meant more burning than tanning but nothing too serious compared to some. The food at our lodge (Gecko Lounge) was simple, very tasty and much more European than African cuisine, which I hate to admit was a nice change. Leaving this idyllic place for the long journey back to Maz was tough.

Malawi - Lake of Stars

Lake of Stars has been described as a music festival like no other and it was certainly very different: intimate so that you could touch and mingle with the singers there; dancing with sand underfoot so no need for flip flops let alone willies; and a friendly and relaxed atmosphere, probably due to the sunny weather and the beach. Everyone was happy to be camping next to Lake Malawi.

For three nights we simply listened, watched and danced to some great music, surrounded by only around 5,000 people. There were musical stars from Malawi, Congo, South Africa, Zimbabwe and Zambia, and a few bands from the UK too (Noisettes and Get Cape, Wear Cape, Fly). For me the acoustic sets were the highlight – realising that these people could really sing and play. The former is something that I was not meant to do as many have testified when I try karaoke!



 



 

Ode to the handkerchief

Back home you were much derided
Something for another generation and far from trendy

A point of amusement when used on British beaches
Not an item wanted to be found in my pocket
On this continent it is an essential part of my survival kit
The sun beats down at 40C on an October day
Every movement I make creates another drip of sweat running down my face
The handkerchief is the saviour
Ensuring I look half presentable arriving at meetings
Mopping up the waterfall of sweat on my red face
Never again will I consider you with such disdain.

Basically it is far too hot to work!

More presents

The time is takes for post to reach me here in Mazabuka can be very frustrating – being told that packages are on the way but never sure when they will arrive. However, I have discovered one benefit as this year it felt like I had two birthdays! A couple of packages failed to arrive on time but both turned up on the same day this week. So I now happily have some new music, films and a footy magazine to read. The chocolate has almost been eaten up! Thank you Paddy, Kat, Nol and Ann – greatly appreciated.

Toga, toga, toga!

And now for something completely different! For no particular reason we threw a party but with a twist, turning it into a Toga party in Siavonga on one of Zambia’s few beaches, which do exist despite the country being landlocked. So we played beach volleyball for hours on end, diving around in the sand until hands and arms were sore, and then jumped into the pool to try and play some more volleyball. It was then Toga time – some went for the traditional white, others added accessories, or there was red, purple, green, blue or chitenge Togas. The lodge provided a local band and the German owner played a few songs too, before sometime in the early hours of the morning the pool became full of people wearing Toga outfits.