Malawi Study Tour

I did not think that I would be back in Malawi so soon but within days I was travelling along the same stretch of road and passing through the same border crossing. Why? Well this was a work trip, and not for pleasure, as VSO Zambia had organised a study tour on HIV and AIDS issues for a number of its partner organisations and I had been fortunate to be invited along too. A group of 10 of us travelled to Malawi – many who I had met before so it was nice to see this familiar friendly faces. We were joined by a similar group of HIV and AIDS workers from VSO partner organisations Mozambique so my Portuguese language skills improved no end – Bon dia and Obrigado! We spent a week travelling around central and southern Malawi (between Lilongwe and Blantyre) meeting with organisations at different levels (Government, district, community and NGOs) who are all working in the HIV and AIDS field. We listened and questioned (and wanted to question some more if there was time), and were overall impressed by what is being done in Malawi in the fight against HIV and AIDS. It all seems more organised and coordinated, and also better supported; I don’t just mean financially but also in terms of politics, planning and actions. The task now is to bring back some of this learning to Zambia to improve the situation here.

Malawi - Cape Maclear

Then we packed up our tents, happy but a bit tired from dancing into the early hours night after night. So for a few days relaxation we headed to Cape Maclear, a beautiful area on Lake Malawi where we swam, read, hired kayaks to go paddling on the lake, and also hired some snorkels and saw plenty of brightly coloured fish. The only downside of the kayaking and snorkelling was the sun cream rubbing off far too easily which meant more burning than tanning but nothing too serious compared to some. The food at our lodge (Gecko Lounge) was simple, very tasty and much more European than African cuisine, which I hate to admit was a nice change. Leaving this idyllic place for the long journey back to Maz was tough.

Malawi - Lake of Stars

Lake of Stars has been described as a music festival like no other and it was certainly very different: intimate so that you could touch and mingle with the singers there; dancing with sand underfoot so no need for flip flops let alone willies; and a friendly and relaxed atmosphere, probably due to the sunny weather and the beach. Everyone was happy to be camping next to Lake Malawi.

For three nights we simply listened, watched and danced to some great music, surrounded by only around 5,000 people. There were musical stars from Malawi, Congo, South Africa, Zimbabwe and Zambia, and a few bands from the UK too (Noisettes and Get Cape, Wear Cape, Fly). For me the acoustic sets were the highlight – realising that these people could really sing and play. The former is something that I was not meant to do as many have testified when I try karaoke!



 



 

Ode to the handkerchief

Back home you were much derided
Something for another generation and far from trendy

A point of amusement when used on British beaches
Not an item wanted to be found in my pocket
On this continent it is an essential part of my survival kit
The sun beats down at 40C on an October day
Every movement I make creates another drip of sweat running down my face
The handkerchief is the saviour
Ensuring I look half presentable arriving at meetings
Mopping up the waterfall of sweat on my red face
Never again will I consider you with such disdain.

Basically it is far too hot to work!

More presents

The time is takes for post to reach me here in Mazabuka can be very frustrating – being told that packages are on the way but never sure when they will arrive. However, I have discovered one benefit as this year it felt like I had two birthdays! A couple of packages failed to arrive on time but both turned up on the same day this week. So I now happily have some new music, films and a footy magazine to read. The chocolate has almost been eaten up! Thank you Paddy, Kat, Nol and Ann – greatly appreciated.

Toga, toga, toga!

And now for something completely different! For no particular reason we threw a party but with a twist, turning it into a Toga party in Siavonga on one of Zambia’s few beaches, which do exist despite the country being landlocked. So we played beach volleyball for hours on end, diving around in the sand until hands and arms were sore, and then jumped into the pool to try and play some more volleyball. It was then Toga time – some went for the traditional white, others added accessories, or there was red, purple, green, blue or chitenge Togas. The lodge provided a local band and the German owner played a few songs too, before sometime in the early hours of the morning the pool became full of people wearing Toga outfits.

Care in the community

This week in Lusaka all the VSO volunteers in Zambia gathered together – joining up to share experiences (good and bad), learn about what people are doing in their placements, catch up with familiar friends who were strangers back in February and greet new faces, and of course eat and drink. The two days were split: day one was where people were in their different sector groups (HIV and AIDS for me); and on day two we were all together for a series of presentations on topics including the forthcoming elections in Zambia (supposedly taking place sometime in 2011), DfID/UKAID’s role in Zambia and income generating activities (how to rear goats for a living!). It was a good couple of days despite Lusaka being absolutely freezing. The fact that my room at the hotel had a permanently open window – because a few glass slates were missing – did not help but the change from the warmth of Mazabuka was not enjoyable.

The most interesting, and also the most disturbing, part of the few days in Lusaka was the visit on the afternoon of our HIV and AIDS sector workshop to an organisation called VK Community Care Organisation. The organisation is based in an area called Garden compound in Lusaka – far from the nicest living area but also not the worst. It provides a holistic community based response to the problems faced by individuals and families affected by HIV and AIDS, TB and other diseases in this community. To my surprise there was a familiar face waving and smiling as our bus arrived at the organisation’s office. I had met Maureen, the manager of VK, when she had visited Mazabuka as part of study tour a few months earlier, and there she was greeting me very warmly as a old friend. This welcome is all very Zambian and despite the fact that she had lost her husband to HIV and AIDS very recently. We met many of the community volunteers who work for VK and then we visited some families who are receiving this support to hand over some the food (maize, oil and nuts) that VSO had bought for them. We were welcomed into one family’s small, dark and cramped home; I think there were two rooms for 4 or 5 people. We asked various questions to the person being supported by VK, and realising how VK is essential in providing food, drugs (and ensuring adherence to them) and care. I learned many weeks later from Maureen that this man who could barely stand when we met him was now much stronger, walking and also working. Perhaps the lasting impression was of listening to the passion from the VK volunteers in caring for others even though most of them are also HIV positive.